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Theres also a full size TB2 in Albion Park quite close to Nowra maybe get the second ascent of Hartkase??? If you end up going can you let me know wouldn't mind a tension sesh with one of if not the best climbers in Australia🤣🤣🤣

Comp boulder setting is what was killing my outdoor climbing. Boards are keeping me putting pressure on small feet and body positioning better than big holds and big moves with heel hooks everywhere actually. But then again, I am 51, an old school setter and climber. All about outdoor type setting and climbing. And hey, if anyone wants to try some of my problems and my "outdoor" type setting on the Kilter, please give them some goes! jmwclimbs 😀

I don’t like this method :( l’m too paranoid to fuck up the heel! I just push the foot in vertically only then slip the toe on.

hell yeah, your beta through that end sequence was quite different than the others ive seen, very techy!

I’m glad I started climbing with this mindset when I started board climbing. My whole goal was to learn how to keep body tension and I refuse to call a climb complete if I cut lose on the board. Glad to hear I’m on the right path for board climbing and thanks for the tips!

great instruction, and very illustrative and sinking-in descriptions of yuck-things. i liked that you notice what amounts of chemicals the glue contains which goes directly into the blood stream by mechanics. it's the same with dry-skin products and working-hands etc. I wonder not too much why doesn't all this stuff exist in organic variants though. until I saw your video, I thought in fact, all climbers were like discounter food plastic no care people.

So helpful, thank you!

is this why top tier climbers spend 90% of their training time on a spraywall? adam ondra for example.. also some of the top climbers in japan just mentioned they train almost only on the spraywall..

My goal is to be a 5.14 climber who has never completed a board route (13+ so far) 😁

I feel like for me it's exactly the opposite. I'm climbing a lot on the moonboard and a 45° spray wall but I never really cut loose. For me, it's way way easier to keep my feet on the wall rather than jump. Maybe it's because I'm more of an outdoor lead climber? :))))

Finally someone comes our and says what I've been thinking for a while now. I see "strong" climbers set the Kilter Board to the lowest setting and cut loose with about half the moves. Good for them for having strong arms, I could use stronger fingers myself, but I just don't think that's practical for outdoor sport climbing.

Alternate title: Your outdoor climbing will do fuck all to make you send that least repeated board benchmark.

Really good lessons Tom, so simple yet I always seem to forget about my legs

Half the moves on my recent moonboard projects went when I realized I could make it to the hold without cutting...but the other half went when I stopped thinking about my lower half and locked off like an animal...😅

Putting the board down to 70° helps me get out of the “front wheel drive” climbing style too. The second you pull to hard with your arms you take a massive rip with so much momentum… you have to climb well

My lack of board climbing might be killing my outdoor climbing but that’s okay because I’m having a blast climbing classic French limestone for the year 🤩

I started setting my own climbs on MB because of this… lots of climbs are big throws and just gets bigger and not enough focused on body tension . Great vid but if done right training boards def help outdoor climbing

Theres the big feet on small hands vs small foot holds dilemma. I think im on big feet side maybe because my fingers are weak and I cant cut even if i want to. Also using my shit shoes on a home wall means im not poping off all the time. I think both are good but think big feet/small holds directly trains technique more effectively. Loved the vid

Very nice background music

One thing that really helped my outdoor climbing was attempting to send every low-graded climb in a particular area. These climbs often have a lot to teach you about the style of that area (for example, one local crag taught me how to top out on heinous granite slopers). Also, I've found that many low-graded climbs exist that have a single-move crux which may be V-easy if you have the reach, but require insane body tension and/or power if you don't. Learning to try insanely hard on V1 has made me a better climb all around. 💪

Super good video, Tom! Great message and great climbing + unreal beta on "Acta"! We gotta get you up here ASAP! 👊

3:53 Bro wtf is that freaky bend in your index finger lmaoooo

Still wondering what the unused hold on Acta Non Verba is for

That comment at 12:54 triggers me because it's not even true! You can designate "no matching" on a TB1 climb but by default there are no rules on it as to how to climb.

Very interesting. Personally, I feel like board climbing has made me far more technical as "just pulling through" doesnt get you very far into the grades or will only get you through specific types of problems. Also, for those of us without crags nearby or tons of other life obligations the board is the best thing ever, especially when you're not stoked on any gym routes, as it kind of becomes your "crag" given that the boulders never cycle out or leave. In this vein, you should set some moderates for us mortals on the TB2 Spray that incorporate interesting movements or skills. I'd love to be able to climb some things dreamed up by an Olympian :)

These kinds of videos and titles are KILLING my respect for the community

I kinda felt attached by the title, but then realised it wasn’t aimed at me! I’m tall and try to cut as little as I possibly can as my 86Kg is tricky to stop.. Board climbing has saved my form when travelling, glad I’m already taking your advice! 😅 Off to a 2019 MB this afternoon, hard as nails! 🥳

at 3:50 is your finger hyperextended like 90 degrees or am i just seeing it wrong lol

Outdoor Climbing is killing my Board Climbing. Priorities 😤

My spray wall climbing is mostly just trying to find whacky sequences on small crimps and I felt attacked by the thumbnail XD the video makes a great point tho, and I think it can be indeed applied to most indoor climbing! Thank you for the work you do <3

The eliminate beta on Acta Non Verba was nothing short of insanity 😭 Crazy strength Tom!

Tension 12 by 12 at Boulder lab Brunswick

Title got that Athlean X ring to it haha

Hoseok lee DO NOT like this video! ;) Tom! If You have to use your legs it clearly means that your arms are just too weak :D

So good Tom! I've recently been thinking about this. I think I see it a bit like this: The fingerboard is hyper specific to finger strength. The board translates that strength to technique on the wall. It almost links the two modes of the sport together.

Yes. My thoughts ; "board climbing rewards a lot no brain climbing". It does. But it's not useless for outdoor. What i've noticed is that being able to pull hard, to power through a section, totally inefficiently, is actually a very good first step in a route crux or hard sequence. You've seen holds, it seems doable, but you haven't done it yet. Maybe it's the first time you're going up the route. I usually ram through those sections pretty quickly, in an ugly fashion. When i do, i think "ok. That's doable, but definitely sub-optimal. I'll find something better later" By the way, we could make the argument the other way : "climbing on those super technical boulders in the gym makes you optimize so many positions that when you encounter a good old no brainer boulder outside, you're unable to do it because you're trying to flee from hard moves". That's also true. Turns out, board and set boulders are very, very complementary.

Yeah we recently got a kilter board at my gym and while I enjoyed at first, I honestly just got bored with it Many of the climbers at my gym really enjoy it, but I just find it limiting as far types of holds and movement. I get bored with things easily though say maybe it's just me.

I noticed how squared up my movement had become, it feels strong but turns out to be a one trick pony, i try to set now to limit some of the natural 'squareness' board climbing puts you in. I also sometimes set foot holds or only use really small ones. I have a 20° board and am making small holds as well now to build more functional finger strentgh, at nearly 50 i dont have the time or patience for hangboard sessions...more climbing i say! Love your vids too Tom, Cheers for the content. 😊

I fell into this trap big time. Turns out sorting by most repeats leads you to become a specialist mostly in massive moves on good holds. Guess what style doesn't crop up outdoors a lot 😅

Good, I don't like outdoor climbing

You just assume I climb outside at all :D

Board climbing and some smooth dnb! Excellent combination. I agree but i dont think people neee saving from board climbing. It is imo so much more fun than climbing in the gym. And indeed, board climbing doesnt need rules! Start on which ever row and finish where u want. Match heel hook, toe hook where possible. Nice one Tom

Board climbing has given me a solid climbing IQ of 10, Perth granite is KILLING my outdoor climbing, Grampians in September though!

Great video indeed 🫡

But Tom you barely rock climb anymore with those boards. Get out there and do the red proj!

Nice video Tom! How do you like the short TB? I am psyched to hear your feedback as you climb more on it! <3

Excellent video, love your content! My gym is very small, an once ive cleared the main wall i switch over to the kilterboard (only training board we have). I ended up doing so many "no match" problems that brain forgot it was even a choice xD Any chance you know the song names in video? Shits groovy

I prefer using open feet on the problems I set on my spraywall. I avoid tracking and try and use small footholds. It allows me to train much closer to the way I climb outdoors and also I enjoy my problems more because I am not forcing myself into an awkwardly small box I rarely climb in outdoors...

wrong again youtube algo, I don't board climb or climb outdoors!

Tom, I highly recommend you check out Tension's board lord video. In it, Zach Galla, Noah Wheeler, and Ben Burkhalter give burns on the extension to the Acta Non Verba project and give it V15. I think you'd also be interested in seeing the intended beta (although yours seems to work killer!).